![]() Remove the starter (I left the started connected and just tied it to the radiator)Ĥ. Remove the intake (disconnect suction lines and wires mostly to the intake, but some to the aluminum intake manifold that are just in the way.ģ. ![]() Unhook the battery, remove battery and battery tray.Ģ. Four of the five mounts need disconnected and the engine/transmissions needs good support. One other one just broke off.Ĭhain/straps to secure engine transmission. I used a cut off wheel on one, the other I drilled out with a series of bits so I could snap off the nut. Tools to fix any broken, spun, or rounded off nuts/bolts. Girder/joist to build a support over the engine. The exhaust would normally be removed to make this easyer, but it could also be left on and the subframe lays on the pipe allowing just enough room to remove the trans.ģ6mm socket (if you plan to pull the axle nut)ģ/8 and ½ drive sockets, racket and extensions The subframe does not go any lower when the exhaust pipe is attached. was about 1" below the body frame and 1" above the subframe. would be low enough to come out on the driver side, but the frame would be low enough that the trans. Was not sure I could get clearance so the trans. The result was, the subframe was removed, but stayed under the car and hung over the exhaust. The one thing I wanted to try to avoid was removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold. With this age, the bolts can be really seized up and break. I also looked into ways to reduce the amount of bolts removed. ![]() So I wrote up the procedure for the 2000. In looking through other post, internet, and a book on the procedures, I found there was more inforamtion needed. I have done this at a much younger age, which was about 25 yrs ago. This one is beyond the coverage period and its hard to pay for the replacement when the car value is probably less than the cost of the trans. We were able to get it covered in the first two replacements. The cost is usually about the same as for new lines, so this is more of a last resort if new lines are unavailable for some reason.2000 Ody, 208,000 miles, transmission replaced twice, and not needs replaced again. In most cities, there are places equipped to make or rebuild hydraulic lines, which would be able to replace the leaking rubber lines and remake a factory-style crimp. One option to replacing lines is having the lines rebuilt. The two transmission cooler lines or hoses are almost always replaced together. But how hard the assemblies are to replace depends on their routing through the tightly organized engine bay, which is the primary challenge. At their endpoints, cooler line assemblies ordinarily have push-fit clips to attach at the transmission and the cooler, which are relatively simple to undo. Many newer vehicles, however, use non-replaceable clamps, which means replacing the entire line and hose assembly. If the flexible hoses have a replaceable clamp to the fixed lines, then replacement is usually just the flexible hoses. Most often the lines are metal, with flexible hoses connecting between the engine assembly to the cooler fixed on the frame. If there are two transmission coolers (the main cooler and an auxiliary cooler) there will also be lines connecting the two. Whatever system is used will have a pair of solid metal lines (a supply line and a return line) running from the transmission to the cooler at the front of the vehicle.
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